The strangely contorted island of Sulawesi is easy to find on any map of Indonesia. Sulawesi is a mountainous, orchid-shaped island. The capital and chief trading port, Ujung Pandang, is a major air hub to eastern Indonesia.

The Spanish, Portuguese, British and Dutch traders, sailed these seas in search of the spices. To the tourist, the most interesting ethnic groups are the sea- faring Bugis and the Torajans, in the Central Highlands.

The seafaring Bugis dominate the southern “leg” of Sulawesi while the traditional culture of the Torajans, centered around death and funerals, rival any in the archipelago, and make Sulawesi one of the most popular tourist destinations in Indonesia.

The Torajans are Christian animist and follow an ancestral cult called "Aluk Todolo", Their ancestral worship require elaborate death and after life ceremonies, which are essentially great feasts and superb photo ops. Animal sacrifices of water buffalo and pigs are sacrificed.

The deceased's remains are placed in coffins and placed in caves set in high cliffs. Lifelike effigies, called Tau Tau, who look down from a balcony, watching over the living descendants, cover the mouth of the cave.

Torajans live in Tongkonan houses. These traditional houses are built on stilts with the roof rearing up at either end in the shape of the hull of a ship. The houses face due north.

Sulawesi is also famous for its scenery and its silk and silverwork handicrafts.

Ujung Pandang literally means the end of the view. It is the air hub and most travelers will spend some time here. Sunset in the Makassar Strait can be viewed from Jalan Penghibur or the Paotere anchorage, where the gaily-colored Bugis schooners are berthed.

A popular half -day trip to Kayangan Island is recommended. It’s a short 15 minutes ferry ride across the harbor. There is usually entertainment in the evenings and on Sundays.

Slightly further away is Samalona Island, which is now a pleasant resort. Its a 45 minute boat ride and offers simple accommodation, some snorkeling and sea sports.

To the north - east of Ujung Pandang are the Bantimurung waterfalls, about 41 kms from the capital. The falls offer a refreshing dip amidst huge conifers. The butterflies here are also considered among the most beautiful in the world.

The kings of Gowa, built an ancient wooden palace about 11 kms from Ujung Pandang. Now called the Ballalompoa Museum, the site displays weapons and Royal costumes. The royal regalia include a mildly interesting studded gold crown weighing 2kg.

Some travelers also enjoy the tomb of Sultan Hasanuddin. His oversized crypt and those of other lesser kings of Gowa are located in Sungguminasa, 9 km from Ujung Pandang. You will also find the Tomaurung stone upon which the kings of Gowa were crowned. There is also a 17th Century mosque that is still used.

Kayangan Island

The center of tourism in Tana Toraja is Rantepao, 328 kms north - east of Ujung Pandang.

Sitting 700 meters above sea level, Rantepao offers cool, crisp, pleasant evenings. This is walking country and travelers can head off in any direction and stumble upon traditional homes and graves.

The two most accessible villages are Lemo and Londa. Londa. A large balcony is filled with effigies of the dead, the Tau Tau. Kids armed with torchlights will happily take you to see old skeletons and coffins. At Lemo, the burial chambers are hewn from rock and has expended into a major burial complex.

Visitors are welcome to join in the feasts but you are expected to follow local customs. Bring a token present, cigarettes work best. Also visit Rantepao Kete, a traditional village with several handicraft shops. The hill behind the village is also a gravesite with life-size Tau Tau ever vigilant.

Remember that this is walking country. Bring good walking shoes.

Toraja Cave Balcony

Ceremony of the death in Toraja

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